First published by T Magazine online on 21 February 2017, and in print on 5 March 2017

When he wasn’t bartending his way through Central Saint Martins, Charles Jeffrey was hosting Loverboy, a monthly club night at London’s VFDalston. He now spends most of his time being a proper men’s wear designer, though “proper” hardly describes his anarchic aesthetic. “A lot of our pieces are sort of troubled, or twisted and pulled and cut up,” says Jeffrey, a former Dior intern whose latest collection of genderqueer scoop-collared jackets, creeper shoes and extravagantly buttoned trousers was partly inspired by Jean Paul Gaultier’s couture. For the runway show, he used a headpiece from a chain-mail hauberk found on the street. For the fledgling designer, the clothes are about ascendance but, burgeoning mainstream success aside, it’s hard to imagine Jeffrey ever losing his underground cool.